چكيده به لاتين
Sandbars, of important properties of coastal morphological features, influence the nearshore wave and current regime and protect the coast against severe waves. Wave induced currents, a result of wave breaking in surf zone, transports sediments and changes morphological features of beaches. One of the main objectives of coastal studies is to forcast wave effects on beach profile changes. Numerical modeling is used as a strong and economic method for assessing different design and management options in these studies.
Cross shore sediment transport is one of the effective factore in erosion and sedimentation, so beach profile changes, in coastal areas. Furthermore, sandbar migration due to cross shore sediment transport mostly effects beach nourishment, displacement of pollutions trapped in sediments, and organism and plants’ lives.
In this thesis, sandbar migration due to cross shore sediment transport is studied and results have been compared to field data. Field data used here have been measured at winter in a thirteen day period, at Noshahr coasts, Iran. They include hydrodynamic parameters, bathymetric data, and bed sediment samples.
One dimentional cross shore transect has been simulated. Significant wave height (Hs) has been modelled using SWAN third generation model with average root mean squre error of 0.09 between stations located in the depth of 4.7 m to 2.2 m. Long shore wave induced current has been simulated by solving alongshore momentum equilibrium equation using MATLAB software. Root mean square errors of modelled long shore current velocity are 0.0775 and 0.0680 during the first and second storm occurred during data casting, respectively.
At last, cross shore sediment transport rate has been estimated using BBB energetic model, and results has been compared to the model used in Plant et al. (2001), which itself is an energetic model based on BBB. Afterward bathymetric changes has been forcasted by solving cross sore mass conservation equation. Root mean square error of modelling bathymetric changes using BBB model for sediment transport is about 0.17 and using Plant et al.’s (2001) model for sediment transport is 0.19. Narrowly we can say BBB model has been more successful in estimating sediment transport rate compared to the model used in Plant at al. (2001).
Keywords: Sediment transport, Sandbar, Wave, Current, Numerical modelling.